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The Scandal of No Cheese and the Joy of Dijon Cheddar Scallion Puffs

Imagine a France without cheese. The thought alone might make any food lover gasp! The rumor once circulated that former French President Nicolas Sarkozy had banned cheese from the hallowed halls of the Elysée Palace. If true, it would be a culinary scandal of monumental proportions. As the venerable French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin famously declared, “A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman who is missing an eye!” Indeed, cheese isn’t just a course in France; it’s a pillar of its gastronomic identity, a culinary cornerstone that underpins countless beloved dishes.

To contemplate removing cheese from French cuisine is to misunderstand its very soul. France, a nation celebrated for its incredible diversity of luscious and unique cheeses, boasts a culinary landscape rich with possibilities that extend far beyond a simple cheese plate. Think of the comforting warmth of tartiflette, the delicate savory custards of quiche, the communal delight of fondue, the rustic elegance of tartine, the ethereal lightness of soufflé, and the irresistible charm of gougères. These are just a few of the many delights that would vanish without cheese. Today, we turn our attention to one of these exquisite, cheese-laden pastries: gougères, perfectly suited for Make Ahead Mondays.

The inspiration for this culinary journey struck me when a dear friend, Pamela, sent a text message with a brilliant suggestion: “I think you should do gougères for a Make Ahead Monday. Freezable comfort food? Yes, please.” Friends, when a good idea presents itself, you seize it. The thought of having crispy, airy, chewy, and utterly cheesy gougères ready in minutes was simply too good to resist. What could be better? Perhaps only savoring them while actually sitting in a charming French café, but I digress!

What Are Gougères? An Introduction to French Savory Puffs

For those unfamiliar with gougères, allow me to introduce you to your new favorite savory treat. Imagine a delightful cross between a light, hand-held soufflé and a cheesy puff, but with far less fuss and much more versatility. Gougères (pronounced GOO-zhair, with a wonderfully evocative “zh” sound that feels distinctly French) offer a perfect balance of texture and flavor. They are typically light and hollow on the inside, with a crisp, golden-brown exterior. Unlike their often intimidating soufflé cousins, gougères are remarkably forgiving to make, making them an ideal choice for both novice and experienced bakers.

Their appeal lies not just in their delicious taste but also in their adaptability. These charming puffs can elevate any meal, serving as an exquisite appetizer, a sophisticated side dish, or a delightful snack. The name itself is a pleasure to pronounce, embodying a certain French flair that adds to their allure. It’s a culinary experience that is both elegant and approachable, embodying the best of French baking without the intimidation.

The Versatile World of Pâte à Choux: The Foundation of Gougères

At the heart of every perfect gougère lies the magic of pâte à choux, or choux pastry. This ubiquitous French culinary building block is a simple concoction to whip together, yet it forms the basis for an astonishingly versatile collection of pastries. From the elongated elegance of éclairs to the delightful roundness of cream puffs, the celebratory grandeur of croquembouches, and the delicate bite of profiteroles, choux pastry is the unsung hero. Mastering this foundational dough unlocks a world of culinary possibilities, making it a truly valuable skill for any home baker.

A plain choux pastry, unadorned, can be piped onto parchment paper and baked, then filled with anything from sweet ice cream to savory crab salad. But the versatility doesn’t stop there. Choux pastry itself can be “dressed up,” studded with an array of sweet or savory add-ins before baking. Our adventure today takes us into the savory realm with gougères, but with a special twist. We’re transforming the traditional Swiss or Emmental cheese-infused pastry into a robust, flavor-packed delight by incorporating extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, a pungent Dijon mustard, and finely minced scallions. This combination creates a puff that is distinctly flavorful, offering a delightful counterpoint to the classic French versions.

Our Flavorful Twist: Dijon Cheddar Scallion Puffs

While traditional gougères often feature Gruyère or Emmental cheese, our Dijon Cheddar Scallion Puffs offer a bold, modern interpretation that is simply irresistible. We’ve replaced the traditional French cheeses with a good, hearty American extra-sharp Cheddar. Yes, while Cheddar’s origins are English, modern American artisanal Cheddar rivals the best, providing a rich, tangy depth that truly shines in this recipe. To further enhance the flavor profile, a portion of the water in the choux pastry recipe is swapped for a strong Dijon mustard, infusing the puffs with a subtle yet distinctive zing. Finally, finely minced scallions are folded into the dough, adding a fresh, aromatic lift that balances the richness of the cheese and mustard.

This savory trio of ingredients creates a gougère that is anything but ordinary. The sharp tang of the Cheddar, the spicy kick of the Dijon, and the mild oniony bite of the scallions come together in a harmonious blend that is both comforting and sophisticated. Each puff boasts a crisp exterior that gives way to a moist, airy interior, bursting with cheesy, savory flavor. These puffs are not just a snack; they are a statement, an homage to the versatility of choux pastry and the endless possibilities of flavor combinations.

The Brilliance of Make-Ahead: Freeze for Future Feasts

One of the most appealing aspects of these Dijon Cheddar Scallion Puffs, making them a perfect fit for Make Ahead Mondays, is their incredible freezer-friendliness. While choux pastry dough must be piped or scooped immediately after it’s made, the unbaked gougères can be frozen in this form. Once firm, they can be transferred to zipper-top bags or tightly sealed containers and stored in the freezer for up to three months. This means you can have a batch of these delectable French comfort foods ready to bake straight from the freezer whenever a craving strikes or unexpected guests arrive. Just imagine: cheesy, puffy, scallion-studded, crisp-exteriored, crackly, golden-brown, and moist-in-the-center French deliciousness, baked fresh in minutes!

This make-ahead capability is a game-changer for busy weeknights, spontaneous entertaining, or simply ensuring you always have a gourmet snack on hand. The convenience of baking directly from frozen means no thawing required, preserving the delicate texture and ensuring a perfectly puffed result every time. It’s culinary magic that simplifies your life without compromising on taste or quality. This aspect not only saves time but also reduces food waste, as you only bake what you need.

Perfect Pairings and Serving Suggestions for Gougères

Once baked to golden perfection, these Dijon Cheddar Scallion Puffs are so captivating that they might just steal the show. But fear not, they also make magnificent companions to a wide array of dishes. For a truly comforting meal, serve them alongside any good brothy soup or hearty stew; they will gladly play a delicious second fiddle. They are also an elegant accompaniment to succulent roasts, rich braises, or a fresh, simple salad, adding a touch of French sophistication to your dinner table.

Beyond main courses, gougères are incredibly versatile. Offer them as an unparalleled after-school snack for kids, a quick and satisfying breakfast alongside a cup of tea, or as a sophisticated addition to your brunch spread. However, for the ultimate experience, the non plus ultra, serve these savory puffs during cocktail hour or with a glass of fine wine. There’s a certain indulgence in pairing these warm, cheesy delights with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc or a light-bodied Pinot Noir. It’s an experience that, deep in his French heart, even Nicolas Sarkozy would surely crave.

There’s an old saying that “nothing tastes as good as skinny feels,” but I vehemently disagree. Skinny simply doesn’t taste as good as cheese. C’est vrai. C’est carrément vrai! So, while we might playfully lament Pauvre Président Sarkozy (cue sad violins), we shall joyfully eat his share and more. (Insert Gallic laugh here.)

Dijon Cheddar Scallion Puffs (Gougères) | Make Ahead Mondays

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Recipe by Rebecca Lindamood

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These cheesy, puffy, scallion-studded, crisp-exteriored, crackly, golden brown, moist-in-the-center puffs are French comfort food that can be baked straight from the freezer. Serve with soups, salads, roasts, braises, for snacks, or for breakfasts with a cup of tea. These also make the perfect accompaniment to the cocktail hour or a glass of wine.

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 stick unsalted butter (8 tablespoons, cut into pieces)
• 5 tablespoons water
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons strong Dijon mustard
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 5 large eggs at room temperature (you can hasten this by putting chilled eggs into warm -not hot- tap water for 10 minutes.)
• 1 1/2 cups coarsely grated sharp or extra-sharp Cheddar cheese
• 4 scallions (dark and light green sections only, thinly sliced – put the white parts, about 2 inches worth, root end down, in a glass of water, and the greens will re-grow!)

Instructions

To Make Gougères (Core Preparation):

1. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats (silpats). Set aside.
2. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the milk, butter, water, and salt. Bring to a full rolling boil over medium-high heat. Add the Dijon mustard and return to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately add the flour, all at once. Stir vigorously with a sturdy spoon until all ingredients are combined and a smooth dough forms.
3. Return the pan to medium-low heat, stirring vigorously and continuously, until the dough comes together, forming a ball around the spoon, and a thin film forms on the bottom of the pan. Continue to stir hard for 1 minute. The dough should appear cohesive but still soft enough to break apart with the spoon.
4. Remove the pan from the heat and let the dough sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, the dough should still be warm enough to be uncomfortable to hold your finger in for an extended period, but not so hot as to blister.
5. Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a large bowl where you can use a hand mixer or a sturdy spoon with significant effort). Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition until fully incorporated before adding the next. After the last egg is added, continue to beat the dough for 2 minutes to develop its texture.
6. Finally, beat in the grated Cheddar cheese and thinly sliced scallions until evenly distributed throughout the dough.

To Bake Immediately:

7. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
8. Using spoons, a disher (cookie scoop), or a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip, portion out mounds of the pastry onto the prepared baking sheets. Aim for mounds that are about 1-1/2 tablespoons in size. Ensure at least 2 inches of space around each mound to allow for expansion during baking.
9. Bake for 12 minutes at 425°F (220°C). Then, lower the oven heat to 375°F (190°C), rotate the pans from top to bottom and front to back, and continue to bake for another 12-15 minutes, or until the gougères are beautifully puffed, firm to the touch, and deep golden brown.
10. Serve warm for the most pronounced flavor, or at room temperature.

To Make and Freeze for Later:

7. Follow steps 1-6 of the “Core Preparation” above.
8. Using spoons, a disher (cookie scoop), or a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip, portion out mounds of the pastry onto the prepared baking sheets. Aim for mounds that are about 1-1/2 tablespoons in size. Leave enough room between the mounds so that they are not touching.
9. Immediately place the baking sheets with the piped gougères into the freezer. Freeze until firm and hard to the touch, which typically takes about 6 hours.
10. Once frozen solid, use a spatula or your hands to transfer all of the frozen gougère mounds to a resealable plastic freezer bag or an airtight container. Label with the date. Keep frozen for up to 3 months, baking as many as you need at a time.

To Bake from Frozen:

11. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
12. Arrange the desired number of frozen gougères on the prepared baking sheet, ensuring there is at least 2 inches of space around each one to allow for proper expansion in the oven. Do not thaw.
13. Bake for 12 minutes at 425°F (220°C). Then, lower the oven heat to 375°F (190°C), rotate the pan(s), and bake for another 12-15 minutes, or until the gougères are puffed, firm, and deep golden brown.
14. Serve warm for the most pronounced flavor, or at room temperature.

Nutritional information is an estimate and provided to you as a courtesy. You should calculate the nutritional information with the actual ingredients used in your recipe using your preferred nutrition calculator.

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“The pleasure of the table belongs to all ages, to all conditions, to all countries, and to all eras; it mingles with all other pleasures, and remains at last to console us for their departure.”

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin